Cocktail Culture.

The rules used to be simple.

Gin, or maybe, just maybe, vodka. A little vermouth, preferably very little. Shake or stir, an olive or two, and thank you, maestro.

Today, it’s a brave new world of mixology. My agents report that there are now over 1,000 kinds of martinis out there, mostly based on vodka.

There are all sorts of chocolate martinis made with crême de cacao, from orange-flavored to peppermint to coconut. Also the espressotini (espresso and Kahlua), the caramel appeltini (apple vodka and butterscotch schnaps), and even the pumpkintini (pumpkin spice syrup, cinnamon stick garnish).

I can’t say in public what Mr. Porter would think, but I’m sure he would be more indulgent if you wore this skirt as you made your way through the menu.

Classic Cocktail Skirt (No. 2212). Luxurious cotton sateen with shaping darts and extra-full sweep. Intriguing curved hem, ankle-length at front and nearly floor-length in back.

It would have been right at home at Cole’s place in Paris during the 1930s, or later at the Waldorf suite.

Women’s sizes: 2 through 16.

Color: sophisticated Green and Espresso foliage pattern, lots of impromptu dash.